Festool finally announced USA retail pricing for their new 18V X2 (36V) cordless table saw, and it’s cheaper than I had expected!
The complete Festool cordless table saw tool kit (CSC SYS 50 EBI-Set) will be priced at $1999, which is by no means inexpensive. The kit with batteries, but not the rolling stand, will be $1798.
I’m surprised – here’s why:
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6 months ago, Festool USA announced the saw at a social media influencer event and via a rather uninformative livestream. As there was no press release or media kit, I turned to Festool’s European product pages for details.
At the time, the cordless Festool table saw kit was $2185 (converted from GBP) in the UK, and $2164 in the EU (converted from Euros). The saw kit set – with the rolling stand – was $2548 in the UK (converted from GBP) and $2511 in Europe (converted from Euros).
At the time of this posting, the kit is priced at $2338, and the kit with rolling stand is $2726 (both converted from Euros) in Europe. These prices exclude tax.
Even the bare tool configuration is currently $1978 in Europe (converted from Euros, excluding VAT).
All of the Festool tools and accessories I have ever looked at cost either just a little more to buy in the USA than in Europe, or considerably more.
Given those prices, it seemed fair to think that the USA price would also be over $2000.
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Festool USA just sent out a summarizing press release – about an hour and a half after their consumer newsletter hit my inbox, and also after I received preorder notifications from a retailer. (Note to marketing professionals: “better late than never” doesn’t apply to press releases, especially when they follow social media influencers’ hands-on coverage by 6 months.)
The press release had “starting at” pricing of $1499, and I found kit and set pricing elsewhere.
$1999 is indeed less than the $2000 price I predicted, at least until Festool’s next price increase. This is for the complete tool set kit, with the table saw, 2 batteries, charger, tool boxes, and portable work stand.
The most basic tool-only option is $1499, and the kit with batteries and charger is $1798.
The new Festool cordless saw has an 11″ rip capacity, max cutting depth of 1-7/8″ at 90°, and 1-11/32″ at 45°. (This means that the saw can cut through 2x material at 90°, but not at 45°.)
The saw is said to weigh 45 lbs without batteries.
As per the online user manual, you must use Festool 18V batteries greater than or equal to 4Ah. This seems reasonable to me.
With some digging through the online user manual, the blade size is the same as for the European model – 168mm, or 6-5/8″, with a 20mm arbor hole. This means that users will likely have to rely on Festool for replacement blades – at least unless or until third party options become readily available.
It seems that Festool USA is being very aggressive with the pricing, presumably to help drive sales and adoption. Maybe they see this as the type of tool to bring contractors and professional tool users over to their 18V cordless power tool system.
It’s unclear how long this pricing will last. Is this introductory pricing? Or will they stay at this level for a while?
I hope this sets a precedent, but doubt that it will.
Personally, I think the portable stand will be necessary, given the saw’s small table size. Other brands’ portable table saws offer much greater ripping capacity, along with greater table support for crosscuts. You shouldn’t use the rip fence for crosscuts, but most models have fold-down supports that prevent the weight of a long board from applying pressure across the blade.
What do you think of the pricing? Would you pay $1798 for the kit, or $1999 for the kit with rolling support stand?
Steve
Still absurdly expensive and has a proprietary saw blade. Maybe this size is more common in other countries, I’m not sure. I’m not sure how much traction they’ll gain in the US. Never had, used or seen Festool in my experience and I’ve lived and done residential/commercial construction style work in 12 states. With all the offerings Milwaukee, DeWalt and others have, with greater capacity and such; I can’t imagine they’ll gain much of a foot hold. I’m curious of their market share in the US and abroad. Are there countries they are strong in? Just seems like one of those specialty, outlier brands to me…
MoogleMan3
I think it uses the same blades as their kapex, so within their system it makes sense.
Bonnie
Pretty sure the Kapex uses a 30mm arbor. Both 30mm and 20mm arbor blades are available from other makers, including Freud, the latter being the standard arbor for most track saws.
fred
There are quite a few 165mm or 6.5 inch circular saw blades with 20mm bores. A quick look on eBay – and all I see for 168mm are blades from Mafell and Festool.
The Mafell cordless track saw that I bought as a gift – uses 185mm thin kerf (1.8 or 1.9mm) blades with a 20mm bore – with only a few blades available from Mafell . Makita makes a few blades too in this size/kerf – but they are very hard to find.
In both cases – if you buy into these sorts of saws – you might want to buy a spare blade – since running off to HD or looking for Amazon overnight delivery may not produce a replacement.
Stuart
There are a lot of blade options, but are they available *here*?
Amazon has a lot of 3rd party international sellers, where it’s not immediately obvious a blade will have to cross an ocean to get to you.
Good Tools
20 / 30mm is common here, the bosch has 16-17 different 165mm x 20mm saw blades in their pdf catalog + other sizes. + 5-10 other brands
Harrison
That’s a good chunk of money, but not that out of line considering the unique digital servo features, and the quality of the fence, accessories, and elaborate multifunction rolling stand. Would be a little better if the batteries were 8.0s, but still not bad.
This will inevitably be compared to the M18 Fuel and Flexvolt table saws, etc, but those are very bare bones kits with no stand, and flimsy plastic accessories.
Like most Festool products, this will be a head scratcher for a lot of people, but for others it will be an easy purchase that will pay for itself quickly on the jobsite.
Stuart
I’m not sure about this one. It looks like an excellent modelmaker’s table saw, but for the jobsite?
Its 11″ rip capacity and small blade size is going to be a limiting factor for many potential users.
They don’t speak much about its dust collection, which is concerning. Product photos show sawdust sprayed all around the work area by the miter saw, and the same could be true here.
There’s a lot of plastic, and it still weighs 45 lbs.
I wonder how much the custom Systainer tool case contributes to the cost. $150? $200? More?
Motorized blade height seems like it could be a convenience, but how well will it work over time? Does it need to be recalibrated? How useful is it without linking it to a smartphone app?
A portable table saw with less than a foot of rip capacity, but Bluetooth app connectivity?
What I like about certain Festool tools is that they match or exceed the capabilities of competing tools, often offering something extra such as efficient dust collection. Others do things in unique ways, such as the Domino.
This doesn’t match the capabilities of corded or cordless jobsite saws. Will it ease common frustrations, or does it simply do things in different ways to justify the high typical-Festool pricing?
Their impact driver was nothing special, and the same looks to be true of their new reciprocating saw. This saw looks special, but is it productive? Efficient? Will it ease common user frustrations and serve most jobsite needs?
It’s meant for finish work, but can it complete all finish work?
$2000 is a lot of money for a partial solution.
If a worker needs to lug another table saw along, this product fails at its purpose.
It might be a good solution to users who say “I could use this” but not for anyone that adds a “but…”
Given my own uses, I’m leaning towards the latter. The motorized depth control seems like a gimmick, but there’s a fine line between gimmick and innovation.
I also don’t trust that they can maintain lower pricing than in international markets. Or did they change something in the saw to provide for the significantly lower pricing?
There are lots of questions and few answers.
I wouldn’t consider the Dewalt and Milwaukee cordless table saws to be bare bones kits. What types of cuts can this saw do that those cannot?
Portable table saws have roll cages and open sizes to save on weight. This Festool model looks to do that by having an entirely plastic housing and a proprietary plastic tool case.
With other brands, you can buy different universal-style stands if you want to, and many work well. With this one, you almost have to buy the stand since the table saw gives you so little work support.
Nick
I don’t think this is geared towards a rough carpentry jobsite saw, but perfect for a trim carpenter, cabinet fitter, flooring contractor, etc. The rip capacity likely isn’t much of an issue if you are only ripping filler panels, trim materials, or flooring material. For the cabinet fitter that maybe does have some plywood to cut as well, they will probably own a track saw that will work with a larger sheet better than any other portable tablesaw will.
If this was just a tablesaw in a systainer, I might agree with more of your points, but the standout feature to me is the sliding table which might effectively be combining both a table saw and miter saw into one package for some jobs. Obviously wouldn’t want to be using this for extensive amounts of trim, but it could eliminate the need to have both a miter saw and table for a flooring contractor or cabinet installer.
On the digital height adjustment – the piece that makes this go from gimmicky to potentially actually useful is that the digital readout on height is able to compensate for blade angle so that the height is truly the depth that the blade is cutting into the material without needing to trial and error a groove cut.
If you’re comparing this to a more traditional jobsite saw that’s expected to be large enough to handle sheet goods and not expected to have much precision, then yeah, this isn’t a comparable tool. But the possibility that it’s effective enough as both a tablesaw and miter saw for exceptionally precise work on site is pretty exciting.
Franco Calcagni
Nick…I think you get it.
Harrison
Yup, I was typing out something similar and got distracted.
Festool already has a whole line of track saws which are capable of much higher precision cuts on large finish panels than any job-site table saw.
As versatile as track saws are, they are hopeless for ripping narrow sections of wood- Trim, flooring, window casings, etc. I’ve certainly done it in a pinch, but it’s not productive or confidence inspiring.
If this saw can make those cuts at a higher quality than your typical jobsite table saw, that’s a win, and provides a function that’s been missing in Festool’s lineup, and honestly from the market.
We have a Skil SPT99 that we like quite a bit, but it just does not put out the same glue line quality rips that a cabinet table saw or a properly adjusted track saw can achieve.
Josh Hammett
This is a job site sliding table saw that will compliment a track saw perfectly.
Franco Calcagni
Some people do understand…
Potato
The quality of the fence is actually quite poor, that and the miter accessory have a lot of slop for such a pricey tool. Fence isn’t even rack and pinion which is surprising for the cost of the saw.
That said the sliding part does look very high quality and I think the small size and quietness of its operation are really compelling.
Robert
The price drop of 8% isn’t explained solely by currency drop. The dollar is stronger today than it was in Feb 2023 versus the Euro, which would let Festool take in stronger dollars versus what presumably their costs are in Euros, and hence drop the price and still make their profit. BUT the dollar is only about 4% stronger, and it looks like its strongest performance was about 6%. So perhaps it is a loss leader as you say.
I’m set with a Sawstop job site table saw, so I don’t need to consider it. And I do scratch my head at the use case for the Festool. I’ve read about how Festool line invested contractors are a natural, but beyond that, I have a lot of the same reservations about it as others.
fred
Might the European prices used in the calculations have included VAT?
Robert
Good point. That’s like a 12 or 13% swing versus most US states sales tax.
Stuart
No.
The kit is now ~$2338 excl. VAT, and the set is $2726 excl. VAT, with both converted from Euros.
Richard
I’m not a contractor but I think this is the sell: If you’re a contractor doing work in a lived in home and are 100% bought into their vac and tools then you can do work as close to dustless as possible (for a portable setup).
That could mean less time walking outside to cut pieces or possibly charging more for a premium (less mess) remodeling experience.
What I don’t get is that festool owns sawstop since 2017, so why design a brand new saw 6 years later without the tech? As I understand it the patents will expire in the next few years, it’s surprising they don’t try to cram them into everything now to get a jump on the eventual market flood.
I also don’t understand having enough money to buy a $2k table saw and not valuing your fingers more.
Jim Felt
Exactly! I certainly can’t understand them either.
Have they have done zero US and/or NA market research? Sure looks that way.
Potato
The tech requires ground connection apparently, but imo that’s not a good argument against such a feature, instead a corded power brick as either an ultimate or optional accessory that also gives sawstop protection would easily be worth the price premium to me.
Stuart
I highly doubt the pricing is due to currency differences, or we would see similar discounted pricing across the board.
The Kit is $1800 here and $2100 in Europe. The full set is $2000 here and more than $2500 in Europe.
That seems to be indication of a deliberate pricing strategy.
Steve L
Is it possible Festool is comfortable with their market share/position in Europe and not so comfortable with their rankings in the US market? So a lower price.
what FELDER sells in Europe makes Festool pricing appear reasonable. What Grizzly sells in the USA makes Festool look darn expensive.
Robert
It was just a scenario I wanted to rule out. Sometimes it works for some industries.
Bonnie
Stuart, these blades aren’t that weird. Freud makes blades in the exact same dimensions and sells them in the states. I don’t see why those wouldn’t work in this saw, unless there’s something I’m missing?
Finding one that’s an identical fit at Home Depot might be a bit hard, but if it can safely mount a 6-1/2″ blade (only 3mm difference) there’s tons available in store.
Bonnie
Nevermind on Freud, re-checked the listing and it was written wrong. But there are still tons of 6-1/2″ blades that should work fine.
Stuart
6-1/2″ blades have a 5/8″ arbor size (<16mm). Festool 168mm blades have a 20mm arbor size.
Why would you assume it can safely fit the wrong blade size with the wrong arbor hole size?
Bonnie
Tracksaw blades almost all have 20mm arbors.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-6-1-2-in-x-40-TPI-Carbide-Finish-Track-Saw-Blade-1-Pack-48-40-0625/320868152
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-48-Teeth-Precision-Ground-Woodworking-Blade-for-TrackSaw-System-DW5258/202516672
Unless there’s something very odd about the tooth geometry on these blades there doesn’t seem to be any reason you couldn’t use a tracksaw blade. In fact these appear to be the exact same specifications as the TS60 uses.
Stuart
Which of the specialty track saw blades you mentioned can you find at a Home Depot store today?
If you’re going to special-order a blade online and wait for it to arrive, you might as well order the right size.
There’s a greater chance a local or regional Festool dealer has the blade you need, same-day.
You have to match the blade size, arbor hole, plate thickness, cutting thickness, and speed tolerance. If you do all that, a 6-1/2″ blade might still not be ideal due to its reduced cutting depth.
I’m a firm believer of buying the right size and style of blade for power saws, especially when safety accessories – such as a riving knife – are designed around this.
Maybe it can fit undersized track saw blades – early adopters will likely test this out.
fred
I’ve compiled a small list of some of the 165mm/6.5inch circular saw blades with 20mm bores. As far as I can tell these were designed with tooth configurations amenable for use in track saws. So, they might not be ideal for use in a table saw. Only those from Milwaukee seem to be stocked at my local Home Depot. I agree with Stuart – that if you are buying a $2000 Festool table saw it is probably “penny wise and pound foolish” to be shopping around for blade that were not designed for it and will perhaps degrade your results or at least not work as well. Anyway, here’s my list:
Company Part # Teeth KERF
CMT 272.165.36H 40 0.067
Dewalt DT10300-QZ 24 0.065
Dewalt DT10640-QZ 40 0.065
Dewalt DWAF16542 42 0.076
Hikoki 0037-7181 65 0.075
Makita A-55809 72 0.059
Makita A-64353 45 0.059
Makita A-98809 48 0.079
Makita A-99932 48 0.073
Makita A-99960 28 0.079
Makita A-99976 56 0.079
Makita A-99982 48 0.079
Makita A-99998 60 0.079
Makita B-07353 48 0.087
Makita B-57342 56 0.057
Milwaukee 48-40-0624 24 0.063
Milwaukee 48-40-0627 48 0.087
Milwaukee 48-40-0643 52 0.087
Milwaukee 48-40-0670 4 0.087
Stuart
The 3mm difference between the 168mm blade this saw designed for, and 165mm blades used in track saws, can potentially make a difference.
For example, will the riving knife cause problems if it’s shorter than the 168mm blade but taller than the 6-1/2″? Normally? Probably not. But what about when you’re cutting a groove?
The speeds also have to match, and the tooth profiles as well.
I’m a stickler about using the right blade for the tool.
fred
Me too!
A 10 inch blade optimized for working in a table saw is not the right blade will fit in my Milwaukee 6460 (10.25inch sidewinder saw) but the tooth configuration will be all wrong and the saw may buck.
A 10 inch blade designed for use in a miter saw might fit into my table saw – but its tooth configuration will not be ideal and I would not expect great cut quality.
Plunge tracksaws also perform best with blades designed for them. The 6.5 inch/165mm variants usually come with 20mm arbors so as to prevent use of 5/8 inch bore blades that were designed for circular saws that generally are not used in plunge mode.
When you add in the variable of the tool being cordless and having a riving knife – then you need to pay even more attention to blade specs (diameter, plate thickness, tooth geometry and kerf). Can you use a blade with thicker kerf than the OEM blade? Maybe – but don’t expect the riving knife to work or the saw not to bog down (unless you make extra passes) from the extra strain.
Jim Felt
I agree with Stuart about being a stickler for “exact” blade arbor and diameter specs.
And if “close” is good enough and some how “probably safe” I’d still ask why on earth with such exotic brands.
Blocky
I think the strongest argument for using only the exact-sized blades is that this saw has a digital height adjustment.
Franco Calcagni
Fred, you are so right about blades being optimized for the tool doing the cutting.
Back in the late 80’s, I bought a Craftsman Radial Arm Saw. I had to learn about the negative or positive on the blades teeth.
RAS, like today’s sliders, need 0 or negative degree hook on the blade. The bottom part of the blade tooth, hits the wood being cut first. This helps keep the wood on the table rather than being “picked up” or lifted.
For a table saw, you need a positive hook angle, for table saws, usually in the 20 degrees range. The top or point of the cutting tooth hits the wood first. For a table saw, this helps the wood stay down on the table as the blade comes from underneath the wood.
A 20 degree + hook wood lift wood on a RAS or SCMS. And a -15 degree hook on a table saw would tend to push the wood away from the blade and table.
Anyway, this is all figured out for us by the engineers that design the blades for our saw. And for sure, track saws, you don’t really need to know or care about the proper hook required, you just go with what the MFR like Diablo, CMT or Forrest, say on the package. You can be sure it is optimized for that cutting tool.
Josh
I live in rural Montana and we can buy 20mm 6 1/2” blades off the shelf here for tracksaws. I’m not sure it’s that big of a deterrent. I guess if you only shop at Home Depot, maybe. But that’s not really the market that festool caters to. This is for cabinet installers and high end trim carpenters. Use the track saw for wide rips and the super accurate table saw for finishing cuts. I’ve been surprised how much festool I see in relatively modest job sites these days. Even here in cowboy country.
Franco Calcagni
Typically, the aftermarket makes, or will make blades, sand paper (hole pattern) and anything else that Festool makes proprietary.
As mentioned above, not seeing these in the contractor “wild” would not be strange. It is clearly for just what another poster mentioned, sold on the Festool dust collection advantages, doing lots of interior work, like kitchens and trim work.
Stuart, I see where you say that if another saw is required on the jobsite, then it has missed its mark. But remember that Festool was one of the first, and still has a strong selection of track saws.
With a track saw and this very small (and expensive) table saw, fine meticulous interior work can be done, and keep dust to a minimum.
And of course the Festoolians who have to have one.
Not for me, as I am not a Festool fan (just 1 sander), and have no need for this small saw, and my budget just could not swallow this, but I can see the market
Stuart
I recently cut shelves around 18″ x 22″ or so out of plywood, using only a table saw. This Festool wouldn’t have been able to do it.
Sure, a track saw could do it, and I’d need an MFT too for just-as-speed alignment and cutting.
All of a sudden, you’re now looking at $799 for an MFT/3 table plus close to $800 for a track saw kit. So that’s what, $1600 more because the $2000 table saw can’t make the same cuts as a $400-$600 model.
Franco Calcagni
I think you are going overboard to prove a point.
In future, most crews will have track saws, and forget the table saw. It is so much more accurate and easier to use, especially for a crew going job to job…and “no”, you don’t need an MFT (although it helps your numbers.
BTW, people who would buy this saw would never do it because they were cutting shelves out of plywood.
Stuart
You’re making too many excuses and hypotheticals. “One day when more crews have track saws?” When will that be?
Have you used a track saw and MFT? An MFT is needed for certain cuts and repeatability.
I own both, and often still prefer to use a table saw for many types of cuts.
Here’s what it comes down to. Can this model do a better job than other corded or cordless table saw models on the market today?
If yes, that’s great. If not, that’s a problem and limits its appeal to Festool loyalists.
If a track saw is needed to make up for a table saw’s shortcomings, why bother getting that table saw at all?
“But everyone will have track saws in the future” is not an answer to this.
Franco Calcagni
I do not own an MFT, but I did use one at a friends place (he is a true Festoolian). He uses it more because he has it as opposed to using it when it is necessary, which puzzles me.
“An MFT is needed for certain cuts and repeatability.”…an MFT, along with parallel bar/clamps or other accessories, which would be used with it, are almost exclusively for repeatability. For just a few cuts, they would not be used because it is not worth the setup time involved…(unless you were my friend who will take more time than necessary, just to use it)
I am not sure why you keep harping on an MFT. You said it would be needed, not me. A contractor that would “need” an MFT…I am having trouble imagining that.
The contractors I know use TS, first to break down large panels, and then when they need straight edges. Traditionally done with a table saw or circular saw; both inaccurate. Breaking down a 4 x 8 sheet with a track saw takes seconds to setup each cut, and rivals a panel saw for perfection of cut.
“In future”, is actually today, or even the past few years. I have many contractor friends, and every single one agrees that it is more practical to have a track saw onsite than a table saw. Many no longer bring the table saw along. So anyone starting out or needing to replace an old table saw, I would say almost all would go with a track saw.
“I own both, and often still prefer to use a table saw for many types of cuts”…interesting, after saying how important an MFT is, you prefer using a table saw. This is only a guess on my part, but you are referring to a cabinet saw (SawStop or Felder) when you say you prefer a table saw for many cuts.
“You’re making too many excuses and hypotheticals.”…again, just a guess on my part, but if you are comparing a cabinet saw, to whatever a contractor throws on a truck/trailer as a table saw; then saying you prefer making many cuts on a table saw rather than your MFT and TS…you are really stretching things…much beyond accusing me of hypotheticals.
This is your forum. You want to be right…OK, your right…happy?
BTW, these “” are quotation marks. I am assuming you know what they are, yet you used them twice and misquoted what I said.
I am sorry, I am not trying to get under your skin, or anything like that, I am just giving my opinion.
Another BTW, I have on multiple occasions heard you state ” but I use the tools”. I am not sure if someone has slighted you for reviewing tools but not actually use them. Or are you implying that on other forums or YT, the hosts, are NOT actual users. In any case, I do not ever try to disrespect you.
If I thought bad of you, I would just go elsewhere.
Stuart
I struggle to see your point, or how it’s relevant here.
Yes, and?
Track saws are good for breaking large sheets of plywood. A table saw – portable saw or otherwise – is good for rip cuts of specific lengths and repetitive cuts. Cutting 12” shelves from a large piece of plywood is much easier and quicker on a table saw than with a track saw. An MFT allows a track saw to be used for similar cuts, but it’s not as good of an experience as using a table saw.
You say you’ve used an MFT once at a friend’s workshop. What about a track saw? Portable table saw?
If a user has a portable table saw and they want a cordless model, will one from Dewalt, Bosch, or Milwaukee match the functionality? Yes, with some limits depending on the size of cordless model you’re comparing it to.
Will this cordless Festool do everything a corded portable table saw can? Other cordless table saws? NO.
It is in my nature to discuss and even argue, it’s how I learn. I don’t care about being right.
But I do get annoyed when, instead of discussing the topic at hand, someone throws in tangents, distractions, and unrelated points.
But what is your opinion?
That users are expected to buy a track saw to go along with it?
Okay, so pair that track saw with a cordless miter saw. Why buy this table saw then?
Franco Calcagni
First off, you are correct in saying this saw cannot do what a typical benchtop saw can do…11 inch rip capacity is laughable (at first)
Anyone who buys this needs to get a TS also? I would think that anyone eyeing this saw, would logically already have a TS. This table saw is that, in name more than its purpose. This saw, I see it as a tool on the list of specialized tools, that one gets when they have many others already, and needs specialty tools…like a mag drill for instance. Also, price, size and limitations, the person buying this would need to have a specific need for it.
Is Festool really missing the mark with this, time will tell. A crazy as it sounds, I think they missed the mark more with their recip saw than this.
Aside from trim and finish work that many have mentioned, I can see a custom kitchen cabinet maker using this for the drawer and cupboard fronts. we’ll need to see how it performs but anyone doing any kind of fine detail work, could have a use for this.
Again, it is a table saw, but not intended to do what a standard table saw does…not at this price and capacity. It cannot do what a cordless table saw from Dewalt, Bosch, or Milwaukee can do, I think Festool knows that. I think a few responders on this forum also realize that. It is not intended to be.
Try not to take this out of context, but a standard table saw would be to a bandsaw, as this saw is to a scroll saw.
Anyway, that is how I see this saw as finding a market, if said market does exist at this price.
I have often said that I am not a fan of Festool, which is still the case. To me Festool is a borderline “cult”. But I can appreciate a company that does things differently, and succeeds.
**** Yes I have used a track saw; I have a Makita cordless with a 55″ and 75″ track & TSO connectors. Yes, I have used a portable table saw, I have a 10″ Ridgid (that folds into its’ stand), as well as a Dewalt 8 1/4, with the gear scrolling fence.
People who know me are amazed and astonished at the amount of tools I have. Some of them being contractors or mechanics, stating I have more than them. They have never seen one person with as many tools, especially someone not making a living with them.
Jim Felt
I wonder if this discussion is kinda like my photo career where Hasselblad and Sinar were (once!) always better than say Mamiya or Horseman?
Digital capture, of course, has decimated these questions. And entire industries.
fred
I’m no great photographer – but once joined a camera club to see if that might give me some insights into better composition and technique. What I recall was mostly discussions about things like Bronica vs Hasselblad. Mamiya vs Rollei, Deardorf vs Sinar, Contax vs Leica, Nikon vs Topcon etc. In retrospect, I suppose that “camera club” was an appropriate name for the group that seemed to care mostly about what equipment you were using compared to the quality of your images.
We’ve had analogous discussions on this forum – about how having bad tools might hamper your craftsmanship – but having all the best tools do not automatically make your work top notch.
Jim Felt
fred. Your last line is the true bane of marketers everywhere! ;-)~
fred
For the most part overzealous marketing of tools like anything else will just thin your wallet – perhaps make you more circumspect about future purchases and might even encourage you to actually learn how to use what you’ve bought to good effect.
But there can be a darker side – that can impact both the DIY space and the workplace. I’m thinking about certain power tools (like table saws) that can be dangerous in the hands of the untrained and/or inattentive. One of my first power tools was a Sears-Craftsman RAS – a highly promoted/marketed tool back in the early 1960’s. While I never had a life-threatening event with mine – I had a scary moment trying to rip a board – and swore off the RAS in favor of buying a table saw on which I had much more prior training.
With cameras – my dad had come back from WWII with a Contax II – probably thinking it would be good for family pictures. But he had neither the time nor inclination to learn how to use it. So, soon I was the only kid in my 6th grade class sporting something other than a brownie at class field days.
PeterS
I have a fair amount of FESTOOL equipment and really like it. But agreeing with Robert on this – no way I would buy a table saw at this price without the SawStop technology. This is particularly true because small portable table saws seem to be more hazardous than large shop saws, probably because they are less stable and are used under less than ideal conditions. What a missed opportunity.
Franco Calcagni
I know that FT and SS are part of the same company (who owns who, doesn’t matter). Maybe they will share tech, maybe the won’t.
I think the main reason they did not put it on this saw, is that SS tech, as it works currently, could never fit in a saw this small.
Bob
I agree 2k and no flesh sensing tech is no go for me too. I also agree the saw stop tech in its current form is too big.
BUT the Bosch flesh sensing tech that was removed from the market for patent infringement would fit. You would think the two company’s would have wanted to work something out?
kent_skinner
11″ rip capacity? I’m so confused.
I can’t think of an industry or trade where this makes sense. The number of model builders isn’t high enough to be the target demographic.
I guess a few finish carpenters will use it?
TomD
Maybe they assume bigger rips are done with the track saw.
Chip
As a contractor ,I buy time with better tools.
Can a standard circular saw cut a straight line with a clamped straight edge,yes…
but a tracksaw does it faster with a splinter free cut.
I am not a Festool user,however I use Festool inspired tools with dust collection, etc in mind.
I also look at value as well.
I can buy a Dewalt/Milwaukee tracksaw and tablesaw with batteries that fit other tools ,with more capacity much cheaper.
More capacity in width and blade safety, are more important than servos for blade height for 90% of contractors IMO.
However if this specific need is being met in your’ particular industry, the technology is worth it.
Price low ahr proprietary batteries, lack of capacity…… will place this on my do not buy list.
Bob
I think it’s a neat saw but too limited for me.
Height and angle servos sound cool but overly complicated and expensive. Reliability? I try to measure as little as possible anyway. More precise to use gage blocks, jigs or pencil/knife marks.
Depth of cut and rip capacity are too small for me. But I have seen a lot of hardwood flooring guys over the years using a circular saw/milk crate impromptu “table saw”. That’s even less rip and depth of cut than this festool. Thankfully I don’t see those anymore probably due to the many inexpensive and excellent small table saws available these days.
Most of which are more capable than this festool.
Also why cordless? No one is doing fine trim work (I’m assuming that’s what this saw is geared for) before the electricians have the house finish wired. Maybe to justify the price?
I’m sure it will work well for some folks. But realistically most will be better off with a more capable job site/portable saw that is cheaper ironically.
Joshua Morris
Me and the guy I worked with considered this saw it got completely thrown out after seeing cut capacities.
Its supply that they would not make this with a cut depth of at least 1 9/16 on 45°
Purchased the bosch one instead
Dave
“…which is by no means inexpensive…”
You are far too polite.
MikeS
Over on YouTube – Peter Millard has the saw for 2+ months and posted multiple videos with his impressions. He loves it.
Hammer
It’s perfect for what I do installing European kitchens in urban areas. The compactness and cordless are ideal. The price is steep for sure, can’t deny that. It’s funny how people expect a tool to be made for what they want and if it’s not then they can’t possibly imagine it might be just the thing for others. If it was Milwaukee and at a cheaper price point we would be reading about all the amazing innovations. I’m
Stuart
What tools did this replace for you, and did it replace them completely?